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Monday, December 23, 2024

I’ve Been a Travel Writer for Years and This South African Safari Lodge Is the Nicest Place I’ve Ever Stayed



Rustling from the nearby brush disrupts our final dinner: a traditional South African braai or barbecue. The table is bathed in candlelight and overflowing with an impressive spread of local foods, a fitting sendoff to a fantastic few days on safari at Cheetah Plains.

I think little of the noise from beyond, as the resort is nestled in the wilds of the Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, so a little animal activity in the bushveld isn’t surprising. But a moment later, a fully grown hyena bursts onto the outdoor boma of the Karula Villa. She has somehow managed to circumvent the electric fence, lured by the tempting wafts of our now especially memorable meal. Frankly, the interloper is more alarmed to see us than we are to see her, and she quickly scoots away, tailed by the attentive and experienced staff, determined to make sure she won’t make a return visit. 

Our braai concludes without additional disruption and with a special bonus. As a nostalgic dessert sendoff, the culinary team surprises us with s’mores. The attentive game drive staff must have shared our sundowner conversation from earlier when we sipped Amarula (a South African cream liqueur) and mentioned how s’mores would be a fun addition to tonight’s sendoff meal.

Courtesy of Cheetah Plains


That attention to detail and focus on guest satisfaction perfectly sums up a day at Cheetah Plains. This property is distinct from other luxe safari offerings, with its trio of private-use villas designed for up to eight guests. Each is equipped with an entire staff for every possible need. Think a sommelier, animal tracker, driver, masseuse, porter, butler, culinary team, and beyond.

Tamsyn Fricker, a Travel + Leisure A-List Top Advisor and Director of Travel Artistry Africa, adds, “Three things help set Cheetah Plains apart from other wonderful luxury experiences in the area: exclusivity, flexibility, and sustainability.” The separate villas allow for private experiences; each villa has its own private game-drive vehicle. In terms of flexibility, the personal villa experience is really about being able to pick and choose your own adventure. The nature of the resort is that everything is bespoke and tailored to you for the ultimate flexibility based on guest preferences. On the sustainability side, “They do move the needle in southern Africa in terms of being carbon negative and with the silent safaris in electric vehicles; they’ve made it a really important part of who they are.”

All this to say, this is the single nicest place I’ve ever stayed in six-plus years of full-time travel writing. Here is my review of Cheetah Plains, South Africa’s loveliest safari resort experience. 

Cheetah Plains

  • They use all-electric vehicles. As part of a massive sustainability initiative, Cheetah Plains is carbon-negative.
  • It’s very family-friendly. Think custom child-approved activities, complimentary babysitting, and chef-inspired kids cuisine. 
  • All the art on the property is by African artists. The famed Goodman Gallery curated the art in the villas. 
  • You can see hippos from your room. Mapogo Villa is set on an active watering hole. 
  • It’s design forward. Cheetah Plains boasts unexpectedly clean, modern architecture distinct from a typical safari lodge.

The Rooms

Cheetah Plains is notably contemporary, a departure from the archetypal lodge look of many safari offerings. Designed by Cape Town-based architecture and interiors firm ARRCC, the property is modernist in feel, embracing raw, natural materials.

“The architecture aspect is powerful and meant to be an unashamedly contemporary take on safari. It lets art and nature really shine. These villas are more about beautiful, crisp, clean design that brings nature in. It’s different from your typical safari lodge,” says Fricker.

It’s also about luxury, with massive soaking tubs overlooking the bushveld, monogrammed pillowcases, automatic blinds, and mosquito nets surrounding the plush bed. The layout of public shared spaces like the kitchen and living room in a central hub, then four private bedroom suites offers the perfect backdrop for a relaxing and indulgent trip. Each villa has a large private pool, an expansive pool deck, and an indoor media room ideal for a cozy movie night. With a boma or patio-like space, there’s room to enjoy the outdoors, too.

Courtesy of Cheetah Plains


Additionally, the three villas (Mapogo, Karula, and Mvula) each have their own sense of personality. Mapogo is a stand-out, with the water feature (watering hole) as the star of the show. “There’s a soothing and powerful sense at Mapogo,” adds Fricker, fitting for its naming inspiration of a coalition of lions. Karula, named for the famed female leopard that roamed this section of the Sabi Sand, means peace. “The sense there is more feminine, with peaceful energy there,” she explains. Mvula, inspired by a former dominant male leopard in the region,  is the yin to Karula’s yang. Fricker shares, “Mvula has more masculine energy, and it’s in the trees with the pool almost hugged by foliage.”

Food and Drink

Courtesy of Cheetah Plains


The food and beverage program is unmatched, as the staff tailors meals to each client’s preferred schedule and tastes. This approach is such a perk of the private villa model. For especially notable offerings, expect an impressive breakfast spread in the bush, multiple snacks and sundowners (happy hours), and outdoor dinner in the South African braai style.

On my visit, I noticed that the team would prepare my coffee order each morning before the 5 a.m. game drive; true luxury is little touches like this. My other most memorable dining experience was a wine-pairing dinner in the cellar. I truly loved the talented sommelier, Mariska, who hails from the Cape Winelands region. She did a lovely job explaining the South African wine world and choosing inventive pairings for our chef-driven, multi-course dinner. And, of course, we enjoyed some chenin blanc, the most planted grape in the country. The massive wine cellar is stocked with all South African wines, which I also really enjoyed.

Activities and Experiences

Courtesy of Cheetah Plains


The main activity at Cheetah Plains is game drives. Due to the private villa model, each group has access to their own private electric vehicle with a guide and a driver. (The guide team consists of all area locals, too.) It’s customary to do an early morning game drive and an afternoon one, but the team can build the itinerary based on guest preferences. Another great safari-focused activity is a bush walk or a walking safari, a way to see things closer to the ground and enjoy a new perspective.

In terms of art experiences in the bush, Cheetah Plains has partnered with Goodman Gallery to outfit each villa with the work of both established and rising African artists. Visitors can meet with a gallery expert for an art tour of their villa. The property has also just opened a standalone gallery, too. For a sparklier option, there’s even a diamond safari, a custom jewelry offering that is truly incredible. In case you forgot to consult our Ultimate Safari Packing Guide, pop into the property’s boutique, Shari’s, expertly curated by (and named after) Shari van Niekerk. The shop stocks custom items and local contemporary pieces, from scarves that serve as the perfect cherry on top of your safari look, to bespoke jewelry. This upscale spot is a prime stop for souvenir shopping, too. (I was able to scoop up a couple of adorable animal-themed books for my toddler son, as well as a pair of the cutest bush baby stuffed animals.)

The Spa

An in-room masseuse is available regularly and will bring a table to your suite; facials are also popular. But that’s not all. “I had a client that wanted body scrubs, not something they typically offer, but they made it happen,” says Fricker. Plus, true to the sense of place, Cheetah Plains uses Africology products, a local, eco-friendly, natural, botanical-forward company.

Family-friendly Offerings

Cheetah Plains is super family-friendly, with inter-connected suites so families can be close but have their own rooms.  Due to the exclusive use villa model, there is no mandatory age for children. Plus, since each bespoke itinerary is designed with the guest in mind, the staff can build custom programming based on the children’s ages on the trip.

Kids can get into the kitchen with the chefs to cook and bake, do walking safaris with an animal tracker, go fishing, or enjoy a movie night in the media room, among countless other options. A daily children’s hamper, delivered each night, includes pillow treats and safari activities. Perhaps most impressive is the complimentary nanny offered during a stay at Cheetah Plains.

Accessibility and Sustainability

While rooms are not ADA-compliant, Cheetah Plains makes every effort to welcome and accommodate guests with mobility limitations or special needs, including those who travel with a wheelchair. “The villas are by nature easier to navigate as they are primarily one-level, and the doors are wide enough to accommodate a wheelchair,” explains Fricker.

Location

Known as South Africa’s crown jewel, Cheetah Plains sits within the sprawling 160,000 acres of the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park. Fricker of Travel Artistry Africa adds, “The resort is tucked in the northeastern corner of the Sabi Sand, which is world renowned for leopard sightings, big predator movement, and the rest of the Big Five. It’s a true heavy hitter in terms of game viewing — you go to see as much as you can possibly see.” Guests can access Cheetah Plains via charter flights from Johannesburg Airport to the Arathusa Airfield.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

As an all-inclusive, ultra-luxe stay, Cheetah Plains isn’t exactly a cost-saving choice for a safari getaway. But, if you fill your villa with a max of eight guests, the nightly rate is lowered significantly compared to six guests in the space. For slight savings, consider seasonality, that is, traveling off-peak season.

“The best value time frames are March 1 through May 31, Sept. 1 through Dec. 10, and Jan. 11 through Feb. 28,” Fricker says. “Cheetah Plains is one of the most inclusive rates you can ever come across in the bush, with an extensive and deep wine menu. It even includes spa treatments.”

There is a slight price difference between the rate leader Mapogo Villa compared to Karula and Amvula, which are a bit cheaper. Rates start at $2,200 per person per day, all-inclusive, based on six adults with a minimum three-night stay and $1,550 per additional guest or $770 per child 12 years of age and under.

Overall, Fricker says, “Cheetah Plains’ has a desire to spotlight the excellence coming out of Africa, as there’s incredible creativity happening there.” From its innovative African-only art gallery to its all-local guide team to its focus on South African wines, Cheetah Plains is the best of the best for a luxurious safari that truly embraces its location.



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