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Move Over Lasagna and Bolognese—This Persian Baked Pasta Is Crispy, Meaty, and Totally Weeknight-Friendly



Why It Works

  • Tossing the pasta with tomato sauce, then steaming it in a covered pot, helps the sauce deeply infuse the pasta.
  • Using a heat diffuser, a heavy pot, or rotating every 5 minutes ensures an evenly browned, deep orange pasta tahdig.
  • Setting the pot in an inch of cold water or on a wet towel right after cooking makes it easier to release the crispy pasta tahdig.

If you grew up in an Iranian household, chances are mākāroni was on the dinner table more often than not. It’s comfort food through and through: a saucy, beefy pasta dish cooked until crispy on the bottom—like a tomatoey bolognese crossed with tahdig. Though pasta isn’t a primary staple in the Persian culinary landscape, this is one Persian pasta dish that holds a special place in Iranian hearts. In Persian, the dish is simply referred to as “mākāroni” (ماکارونی). It’s typically made with bucatini, which has a narrow hole running through the center of its long strands.

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Iranians made it their own with this beloved hybrid, which blends familiar Western noodles with the time-honored steaming techniques used to make Persian rice. The result? A one-pot wonder where every bite is infused with rich, slow-cooked flavor, and the signature crispy bottom is the part everyone fights over.

Persian mākāroni distinguishes itself by its unique preparation. The pasta is cooked twice: first boiled slightly beyond the al dente stage to maximize water absorption. It’s then mixed with a meat-based tomato sauce (most often lamb or beef), and steamed in a tightly covered pot. This method mirrors the preparation of chelow (چلو), the iconic Persian rice dish, where the rice is first parboiled and then steamed. A key feature of Persian mākāroni is its tahdig (ته دیگ), a coveted crust of crispy, buttery pasta that forms at the pot’s bottom. This echoes the prized tahdig of Persian-style steamed rice, often a source of friendly competition among diners.

History of Noodles and Pasta in Iran and Persian Cuisine

Although Western-style pasta made from semolina (coarse flour from durum wheat) is relatively new in Persian cuisine, simple flat noodles made from all-purpose flour, salt, and water have been part of Persian cuisine since at least the seventh century CE. The Persian name for traditional all-purpose flour flat noodles is “reshteh.” Reshteh remains an essential ingredient in many traditional Persian dishes, such as reshteh-polow (rice with noodles) and ash-e reshteh (a popular thick soup of herbs, legumes, and noodles).

Western-style pasta consumption in Iran dates back to the early 20th century. Before the 1930s, small amounts of pasta were imported from Europe, primarily for embassies, consulates, and foreign residents. Iran’s first Western-style pasta production began in 1934, with an initial daily capacity of 20 to 30 kilograms to meet the growing demand from this foreign population. Indeed, before the loanword mākāroni became prevalent in the Persian language, Persians referred to pasta as reshteh-ye-khāreji, which translates to “foreign noodle.”

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Starting in the mid-20th century, Iranian home cooks, embracing the newly available Western-style pasta, created a unique Persian-style pasta dish. This dish utilized techniques similar to those used for centuries to prepare traditional steamed rice. Another key difference is that mākāroni uses Western-style semolina pasta as the primary ingredient, whereas traditional Persian noodle dishes do not feature noodles as the main component.

Mākāroni quickly became popular among Iranians of all ages, many of whom consider it a favorite comfort food.

A Celebration of Crispiness 

Often, there is something crunchy at a Persian meal—anywhere from the simple pile of radishes on the ubiquitous plate of fresh herbs to a side bowl of Persian-style crisp cucumber pickles to the iconic tahdig, whether it is from the bottom of the Persian steamed white rice (chelow) or the bottom of the pot of this unique pasta dish.

Many cuisines have independently developed their own versions of crisped or singed rice—like Korean nurungji, Spanish socarrat in paella, Chinese guoba, Dominican concón, Vietnamese cơm cháy, and Indian vagharelo bhaat. Crisped pasta, by contrast, is much rarer, appearing primarily in Persian tahdig and occasionally in Italian dishes like pasta al forno or frittata di pasta. Cantonese-style crispy noodles, which are typically deep-fried, represent a distinct approach altogether.

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Spaghetti all’Assassina, a distinctive burnt spaghetti dish from the Southern Italian region of Puglia, is one key example of a heavily crisped (verging on burnt) Italian pasta dish, but it presents some practical challenges. Beyond its inherent messiness, it needs to be prepared in a wide, professional-grade pan to allow the long spaghetti strands to lie completely flat. Furthermore, each batch typically yields only enough for two people, scoring low on the “effort-to-servings ratio” scale. Persian mākāroni, in contrast, is clean and simple; no specialized cookware is needed, and a single recipe readily serves six to eight. Each diner enjoys both a piece of the prized crispy layer and an ample portion of sauced bucatini.

Choosing the Right Pasta for Persian Mākāroni

As mentioned above, Persian home cooks almost always make mākāroni with bucatini, a long, tube-shaped pasta about twice as thick as spaghetti. It’s likely that bucatini was chosen for this dish because it was one of the few types of Western-style semolina pasta available in Iran at the time. Even into the early 1970s, during my late teenage years, I recall limited pasta varieties in Tehran grocery stores. However, according to Dan Pashman, whom I refer to as the “pasta scientist” and the author of Anything’s Pastable, there is a scientific reason why bucatini is well-suited to this dish.

The structure of the bucatini, a relatively narrow tube, creates a unique textural experience. Its small diameter and compact walls produce a firmer, more resilient pasta. Unlike wider pasta tubes such as rigatoni, ziti, and penne, bucatini resists flattening into two thick layers when bitten. Instead, the compact walls spring back, offering a delightful resistance and a satisfyingly chewy texture.

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Bucatini, however, is not a uniform product. In preparation for this article, I examined nearly a dozen packages from various countries (including the US, Italy, Greece, and Turkey) and companies, including everyday Teflon-die extruded ones and the fancy, more expensive bronze-die extruded variety. Labeling was inconsistent: some were labeled “bucatini,” while others used numbers ranging from two to 13! Information about manufacturing methods (e.g., “slow-drawn,” “bronze-die”) was also inconsistent. Most importantly, the pasta varied significantly in both noodle girth, ranging from 2.8 to 6.5 millimeters, and hole diameter.

Based on my own decades of experience making this dish and more recent systematic testing of different brands and sizes, the most common variety found in US supermarkets is similar to what many Persian home cooks prefer., with an external diameter of about 3.5 millimeters.

The good news is that the precise size of the bucatini-like pasta isn’t critical for this recipe. Don’t hesitate to make it even if you don’t have the “ideal” bucatini. Also, save your money—there’s no need for expensive bronze-die extruded pasta. Teflon-die extruded bucatini’s smoother surface is better for achieving maximum crispiness.

The Unique Tomato Sauce for Persian Mākāroni

Traditionally, Persian home cooks prepare this dish with a simple, slow-cooked, meat-based tomato sauce similar to bolognese. The recipe below provides a traditional version. However, you can substitute your favorite bolognese-like sauce—whether homemade, store-bought, or even doctoring a store-bought meatless marinara—for example, by adding sautéed ground meat.

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


A highly viscous, not overly chunky, sauce is the key to a successful dish. A thick sauce adheres better to the pasta, preventing the pooling of liquid at the bottom of the pot that can impede crisping. A smoother sauce, free of large chunks of meat, also ensures a more even and appealing pasta tahdig without overly browned chunks of meat.

Cooking Mākāroni: Tips for Perfect Tahdig

Its two-stage, boil-steam cooking process distinguishes Persian mākāroni from many other pasta dishes. Creating the signature crunchy crust, or tahdig, requires a bit more attention compared to the Persian rice tahdig. The natural sugars in tomato sauce can cause the bottom layer of the pasta to over-brown or burn if cooked too long or at too high a heat. To prevent this, consider using a heat diffuser, a.k.a. a flame tamer.

Alternative means of ensuring even heating include a heavy-bottomed pot, rotating the pot every five minutes, or placing a parchment paper circle on the bottom before adding the sauced pasta. At the same time, however, some Iranians, including myself, love their pasta tahdig very dark, so don’t be too afraid of pushing the boundaries of burning.

How to Serve Persian Mākāroni

Mākāroni is typically served as a main course for lunch or dinner. When cooked in a non-stick pot, all the contents can be inverted onto a serving platter, showcasing the pasta tahdig atop a cake-like mound of sauced pasta. The tahdig may not release cleanly if a non-stick pot is not used. In this case, gently spoon the pasta onto a platter, then use a spatula to remove the tahdig and arrange the shards of pasta tahdig around the pasta.

Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Serve mākāroni with a fresh green salad, such as the Persian Shirazi salad. Alternatively, it can be served along with some sort of yogurt-based side, such as the Persian mast-o-khiar. Regardless of how it is served, get it out of the pan as quickly as you can before the moisture of the steam emanating from the cooked pasta lessens the crispiness of the pasta tahdig.

Move Over Lasagna and Bolognese—This Persian Baked Pasta Is Crispy, Meaty, and Totally Weeknight-Friendly



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  • 8 tablespoons (120 ml) olive oil, neutral oil, or ghee, divided

  • 1 pound (450 g) ground lamb, ground beef (any fat percent is fine for both), or a combination

  • 3 tablespoons Diamond Crystal Kosher salt, divided; for table salt use half as much by volume

  • 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

  • 1 medium white or yellow onion (about 8 ounces226 g), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice

  • 4 cloves of garlic (20 g), minced

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

  • 6 ounces (170 g) tomato paste

  • 1 pound (450 g) bucatini pasta, each strand broken into four pieces

  1. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) oil or ghee over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add ground meat with 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring and breaking up with a wooden spoon into small pieces, until meat is browned, about 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer meat to a plate and set aside.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  2. Heat remaining rendered fat and 2 tablespoons oil in pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add red pepper flakes and cumin seeds, and cook, stirring constantly until fragrant, for 30 seconds.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  3. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions soften and just begin to turn golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  4. Add garlic and turmeric, and cook until fragrant, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  5. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring to combine until tomato paste has darkened to a deeper red about 2 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  6. Return browned ground meat to pot and add 2 cups (480 ml) water. Stir to combine and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer, stirring every 10 minutes, until mixture is thickened and flavors well developed, about 45 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  7. In a separate large pot or Dutch oven, bring 4 quarts water and remaining 2 tablespoons of salt to a boil over high heat.

  8. Cook broken bucatini pasta in the boiling water until fully tender and slightly past the al dente stage, about 10 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  9. Drain the pasta well. Transfer drained pasta to a large bowl. Add prepared tomato sauce and toss to combine thoroughly.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  10. Return pot to the stovetop. (See note) Add remaining 4 tablespoons oil to Dutch oven. Pour sauced pasta into pot. Wrap the lid of pot in a clean, thick kitchen towel. Cover pot tightly with the towel-wrapped lid. This helps prevent steam from escaping and keeps condensation from dripping onto pasta. Set Dutch oven over medium-low heat and cook, rotating pot for even heating every 5 to 10 minutes, until pasta develops a dark golden crust on the bottom, for 45 minutes (or longer if you prefer your pasta tahdig darker with a higher degree of singeing.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


  11. Fill your sink with 1-inch cold water. Without taking the lid off the pot, set the pot immediately in the water-filled sink (alternatively, set the pot on top of a thoroughly wet kitchen towel); this will help in getting the tahdig out. Let sit 4 minutes. Move pot to your kitchen counter and carefully remove the lid (avoid any hot steam that might come out and also make sure not to let any condensed water drip down onto the pasta).

  12. If using a nonstick pot, invert a round serving platter (slightly wider than the diameter of the pot) over the pot. Firmly grasp both the platter and the pot and carefully but quickly flip them over together. Lift off the pot. The tahdig should be beautifully displayed atop a cake-like mound of pasta. If using a standard pot, the tahdig may not release easily. Run a thin, flexible silicone spatula around the edges of the tahdig to loosen it from the bottom and sides of the pot. Repeat this a few times, gently working the spatula a bit further underneath each time. If the tahdig releases completely, use the same flipping technique as with a nonstick pot. If not, gently spoon the pasta onto a serving platter. Then, using a spoon or flat spatula, carefully scrape the tahdig up, trying to keep it in as large pieces as possible, and arrange them around the pasta.

    Serious Eats / Nader Mehravari


Variations For the Tomato Sauce

Mushrooms are a popular addition to the meat-based tomato sauce. For best results, sauté 8 ounces of your preferred mushrooms until deeply brown before adding them to the sauce. This prevents the sauce from becoming watery and enhances the flavor.

While ground lamb or beef are traditional, crumbled sausage, ground pork, or ground poultry also work well in the sauce.

For a vegetarian version, use your favorite meatless tomato sauce. Enhance the flavor with other add-ins as desired.

Variations For the Tahdig

Persian home cooks often use the bottom of the pot as a canvas for innovative tahdig creations. The possibilities are endless! Popular options include lining the pot with potato slices or a layer of flatbread, such as lavash or pita

More elaborate tahdig variations include creating a lattice with tortillas, arranging edible leaves, or forming circular patterns with long strands of boiled pasta.

Special Equipment

Large Dutch oven or nonstick pot with lid for cooking the sauce and assembled dish, large slotted spoon, a separate large pot or Dutch oven for boiling the pasta, stainer, large round serving plate, thin metal spatula

Notes

Consider using a heat diffuser, a.k.a. A flamer tamer. Alternative means of ensuring even heating include heavy-bottomed pot, rotating the pot every five minutes, or placing a parchment paper circle in the bottom before adding the sauced pasta.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The tomato sauce can be refrigerated for up to 7 days in advance or frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw frozen sauce in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours before reheating. Reheat refrigerated sauce on the stovetop or in the microwave.

Leftover mākāroni is excellent. Refrigerate it in an airtight container for up to 7 days or freeze it for up to 3 months. Thaw frozen mākāroni before reheating. Reheat leftovers in the microwave, adding a few tablespoons of water as needed.

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