Until recently, I was fairly ambivalent about one-pan pasta recipes. I appreciate them in a pinch [here’s a longtime favorite; and this is my total comfort food], but I sometimes find that when the pasta is cooked in a sauce the whole time, it doesn’t quite get that al dente definition and structural integrity that it does when cooked in water. I’m so glad I didn’t quit on them, though, because with this recipe, not to be dramatic or anything, but I feel like I’ve finally cracked the code.
What’s the secret? It’s mostly water. I know, I know, I can hear* your eye roll from here. What I mean is, the one-pan pastas that work the best spend most of their cooking time in the element that cooks them best. And the magic — the flavor, the complexity — is in the layering that you do before and after. Before, we’re cooking garlic in a puddle of olive oil and/or butter. If you’re into crispy bits of salami in your pasta, you make them here and save them for the end. Then we add the water or broth, just enough that you’ll have a small puddle left in the pan to build your sauce upon. Two minutes before the pasta is done, we are dumping in an entire bag of frozen peas — hear hear for no measuring! One minute later, we add some cream. At the end, we finish it with parmesan, the crispy salami (if using), lemon zest, and some extra pepper flakes and mint, and this is where I stop resisting being dramatic.
I can’t stop. I’ve made this, and variations on it, more times for lunch and dinner in the last month than I’m even willing to admit here, a safe space where I can admit such things. It’s cozy and quick and because everything happens in one pot, there’s almost no mess to clean up, but it still tastes complex and fussed-over. The peas are perfectly cooked little pops of sweetness and they’re an ideal forkful match for the ditalini. The sauce is silky but unheavy; the crispy salami a heavenly accent. Come, make it an embarrassing amount of times with me.
* Having a teenager means, regretfully, these senses are heightened. Having a teenager also means that when I rolled my eyes at a certain antic at dinner last night, I was informed that my eyeroll was “weird” and “mostly on one side and then the other one follows after” and I should “practice it a little” — new complex just dropped, thanks kids!
This Braiser! While I’m usually loyal to my original circa 2014 black matte braiser — sleek! fashionable! — this time I couldn’t resist the deep, deep blue limited edition Staub x Smitten Kitchen Braiser we have in this spring, in case you spotted it here. My obsession with this pan grows every year. The story of this pan, and partnership, is that I bought my original braiser over a decade ago and when Staub stopped selling them in the US, I asked if they could bring them back. From there, the Staub x Smitten Kitchen Braiser was born. I find it to be the perfect size for 75% of the food I cook (stovetop, oven, oh and it’s dishwasher-safe too), which is why you see it so often on this site. I hope you love it too.
One-Pan Ditalini and Peas
- 4 tablespoons (60 ml) olive oil or 2 tablespoons olive oil + 2 tablespoons butter
- 2 ounces (55 grams) thinly-sliced salami, cut into strips (optional)
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- Red pepper flakes, to taste
- 1 pound (16 ounces or 455 grams) uncooked ditalini pasta
- 4 cups (945 ml) vegetable broth (salted or low-sodium, if unsalted, add salt)
- 2 cups (475 ml) water
- 2 cups frozen peas (from 1 10-ounce or 285-gram bag), no need to defrost
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream
- Finely-grated zest of half a lemon
- 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
- Chopped fresh parsley, mint, or basil
Heat pan over medium-high and add olive oil, heating it too. Add salami to olive oil and heat, stirring, until it begins to crisp. Use a slotted spoon to remove it from the pan and drain it on a paper towel. Add garlic and a pinch or two of pepper flakes to the oil left in the pan and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add pasta, broth, and water and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes shy of done. Add peas and cook for one minute more. Add cream and cook for 1 final minute. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Finish with lemon zest, half the parmesan, all of the crisped salami (if using), and herbs. Cut zested lemon half into wedges and serve on the side for squeezing over, along with additional parmesan. Eat right away.
