How to Visit Stowe, Vermont Like a Local

For Donna Carpenter, Stowe, Vermont, isn’t just a buzzy winter destination; it’s a workplace, a research and development lab, and her home. 

In case you didn’t immediately recognize the name, Carpenter is the owner and chair of the board of Burton Snowboards and arguably the most powerful woman in winter sports. She’d have every right to be all business, but within seconds of meeting her, it’s clear that her success comes from her warmth. We met inside the lobby of Burton’s Stowe headquarters, surrounded by professional snowboarders, creators, and a solid handful of dogs running around the office as their owners worked — including one of Carpenter’s own right by her side. After a hello, a handshake, and plenty of pats to the head (for the dogs, naturally), we went back to her office to chat about our favorite shared topics: Stowe and the future of snowboarding.

“Stowe is a real community. It’s a historic New England town that was here long before the ski area was, and that’s one reason I really love it,” Carpenter shared of the small town in the Green Mountains. And really, she would know, as she’s spent the last three decades here, opening a grocery store with her friend Ina Garten, building Burton Snowboards alongside her husband, Jake Carpenter, raising their children, and advocating for a sport that, at first, nobody wanted around. 

“In the beginning, it was very generational,” Carpenter shared of snowboarding’s early years. “It’s funny because skiers would say, ‘I don’t like the snowboarders,’ and I’d reply, ‘I bet your mother didn’t like your long hair.'” As she noted, back then it was a sport dominated by young boys, usually between 14-15 years old. “If you’ve got a group of 14, 15-year-olds, I don’t care if they’re on skis or snowboards, they can be a pain in the ass,” she added with a laugh.

But those kids are now all grown up, with kids — and even grandchildren — of their own, who have grown to love this sport just like I do. And while there were certainly others in the mix in those early days (Carpenter credits the snowboard company Sims for pushing them with a little healthy competition), Burton had the advantage because it was located here in Vermont. 

“I think it was an advantage for us from the beginning,” she said, “because what better place to test product. Here, you might have rain one day, below zero the next day, ice, powder, whatever you’ve got, you’ve got it all here. It’s the perfect place to test products.”

Test they did, with Jake making 100 prototypes before landing on his last board. (Those early prototypes are still on display inside Burton’s HQ. Just ask for a tour from their resident archivist Todd “TK” Kohlman if you ever get the chance.) The Carpenters remained dedicated to both the sport and the town even after becoming the most recognizable brand in snowboarding, and it’s a love the town returned to them in droves, including on one very special trail on the mountain. 

“There was this trail called Lullaby Lane, and my husband said to me more than once, ‘This is what I want named after me,'” Carpenter explained. And we both had to chuckle because if you’ve visited Stowe in the past, you know that Lullaby Lane was an easy, rolling green trail that offered a slow, scenic route that may not seem fitting for an extreme sports legend. But following Jake’s passing in 2019, the mountain asked to dedicate a trail to him, and Carpenter could think of no better way to honor him. “And so now, it’s ‘Jake’s Ride.'” 

While Jake was certainly the heart of the brand, Donna has always been there, protecting its soul. Her devotion to the sport, and to the town, is clear through her commitments to projects like Burton’s Chill Foundation, which aims to “create a more equitable outdoor community,” her efforts in ensuring gender parity in the sport and at Burton, and her work on the board of Protect Our Winters, a climate advocacy group. 

“It’s not new to me,” she says of taking over the reins. “I have been very involved in the company from the beginning. We have a saying, ‘Focus on the rider, and everything else will follow.'” And if you’re a newbie, that’s okay — Burton has plenty of products for you, too. Carpenter says you should come visit their home mountain to learn because, “If you can do it at Stowe, you can do it anywhere.” 

Stowe indeed delivers a quintessential Vermont winter experience that keeps people coming back season after season. If you’re looking to visit, keep scrolling to find out a few of Carpenter’s (and my own) favorite places to see, stay, and shred in Stowe.

When to Go

Stowe’s ski season usually begins in November and runs through mid-April. However, its peak season, which usually offers the best snow conditions, is typically in January and February. If you prefer fewer crowds while making your turns and the opportunity to potentially find deals at nearby hotels, consider visiting in December (before the holidays) or in late March for some spring skiing. Stowe uses a dynamic ticket pricing model, so you may be able to find cheaper day tickets during these times, too. Stowe is also a truly magical place to be during the Christmas and New Year holiday break as the entire town is lit up in twinkling lights while the mountain hosts plenty of holiday-themed events, including a fantastic torch parade on New Year’s Eve. There’s also the annual Stowe Winter Carnival in late January, which features everything from snow sculpture contests to live music. 

Where to Stay

The Lodge at Spruce Peak

The Lodge at Spruce Peak has become the luxury accommodation in Stowe. The property sits at the base of Spruce Peak, making it easy to ski in and out each day. Inside, guests will find spacious suites, some of which include full kitchens for anyone looking to stay awhile, as well as plentiful dining options that feature Vermont-inspired menus filled with locally sourced ingredients. As for relaxation, the lodge also has a heated outdoor pool and fire pits to relax around, as well as a full-service spa to work out those post-ski kinks. 

Outbound Stowe

Stowe welcomed a brand-new accommodation in the spring of 2024 with the opening of Outbound Stowe. The 73-room hotel sits on nine gorgeous acres just a few minutes from the mountain and features a vintage-meets-modern mountain aesthetic. It has fewer amenities than other larger hotels in the area, but it does still sport the all-important hot tub for après-ski, and it has direct access to Stowe’s Recreation Path. 

Trapp Family Lodge

Check into Stowe’s most iconic accommodation, the Trapp Family Lodge, which is owned by the family that inspired “The Sound of Music.” The resort has 2,500 acres of scenic trails to explore via cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking outings. There are 96 rooms and suites in the Main Lodge, along with larger villas and guest house chalets for groups. Don’t miss the lodge’s Christmas events, including its Christmas Eve dinner. 

Where to Eat

Black Cap

If you’re in need of a morning caffeine boost, there’s no better spot in town than Black Cap. Located at the end of Main Street, the shop offers delicious speciality coffees and an excellent simple cup of joe. It also has delicious pastries ideal for giving you a sugar rush before you hit the mountain. It’s Carpenter’s preferred coffee shop in town, so if you see her there, make sure to say hi. 

Harrison’s Restaurant & Bar

Harrison’s, for me, is home. Without fail, I have dined there every single time I have visited Stowe since it opened in the early 2000s. The family-run restaurant on Main Street offers a cozy atmosphere that will make you feel right at home, too. Order a plate of its seafood risotto or maple-glazed salmon and enjoy the roaring fireplace all winter long. (Just make sure to make reservations, as this is a rather popular spot for locals and travelers alike.) If you do visit during the holidays, don’t be surprised if Santa makes a quick appearance. 

Doc Ponds

Find a laid-back vibe at Doc Ponds. The pub is an ideal spot for a warm comfort meal, like a crispy chicken sandwich or a stacked burger. It’s also got a massive beer menu featuring a ton of local brews, so ask about the perfect draft or can to pair with your meal for a little extra Vermont flavor. 

The Bench

The Bench is a Stowe staple. Here, you can snag a wood-fired pizza that will leave you craving seconds. And we’re not talking just plain cheese; these pizzas come with delicious toppings like hot honey drizzles, local maple syrup, Vermont cheddar and blue cheese, Robie Farm sausage, and more.

Where to Après-ski

The Matterhorn

If you don’t go get a beer at The Matterhorn after you ski, did you even really visit Stowe? The Matterhorn is a Stowe icon, which offers a festive post-ski atmosphere filled with music, laughter, and plenty of pints. And, as Carpenter noted, “They actually have the best sushi,” so if you need a snack, make sure to order a roll or two. 

Piecasso Pizzeria & Lounge

Piecasso is another favorite among Stowe’s ski crowd for both a post-mountain drink and a meal. The pizzeria is relaxed enough that it’s totally okay to show up with all your gear still on. It’s also an ideal spot for families to après together. And while the restaurant has a massive menu, you really can create whatever pie you’re after thanks to its equally lengthy list of potential toppings. 

WhistlePig Pavilion

You don’t need to travel far off the mountain to find a great après spot. Just head over to WhistlePig Pavilion, located at Spruce Peak. Here, you can get an upscale craft cocktail made with WhistlePig rye whiskey while sitting around one of the outdoor fire pits and taking in the last views before the sun goes down.  

Off-mountain Activities

Try ice skating.

If you’re looking for a family-friendly off-day activity, check out Stowe’s outdoor ice skating rink, located right in the Spruce Peak Village Center. Best of all, access to the rink is completely free if you bring your own skates (but you can also rent a pair right at the rink).

Go dog sledding.

Find a little thrill by booking a journey with Eden Ethical Dog Sledding, which takes guests through some of the most pristine Vermont wilderness. The tours begin about a 45-minute drive outside of Stowe, but as the company explains, this is because the region’s unique microclimate ensures more snow. And, as a bonus, you can give plenty of pets and get a ton of kisses pre- and post-ride from the pups. 

Work up a sweat snowshoeing.

Stowe is home to miles upon miles of fantastic trails for snowshoeing, allowing travelers to enjoy the serene views at their own pace. Trail options range from easy routes around town to more challenging hikes through Stowe Mountain Resort’s wooded paths. Check out all the trail and rental options online. 

How to Ride

Tickets

Stowe Mountain Resort is part of the Epic Pass, so passholders have access to the mountain as well as various Vail Resorts around the globe. (Note: Depending on your pass, it may have blackout dates, so make sure to check your pass before you head to the mountain.)  There are also day and multi-day passes available. Again, prices fluctuate based on demand, but you can save by purchasing tickets online and well in advance.

Rentals

There are several shops in town that visitors can rent from, including AJ’s Ski & Sports and Pinnacle. If you’re staying at Spruce Peak, you can also take advantage of their rental services and have your gear delivered right to you or pick it up in store. 

Skiing and Snowboarding

Stowe offers 116 trails across 485 skiable acres, including something for all abilities. The trails break down into 16 percent beginner, 55 percent intermediate, and 29 percent advanced runs. There’s also one terrain park for those who want to throw some tricks. The mountain’s “Front Four” trails — Goat, Starr, Liftline, and National — are famous for being some of the most challenging terrain in New England, so proceed with caution. 

Programming

Stowe has a great ski school and plenty of kid-friendly programming, including everything from group lessons to private coaching. The mountain has dedicated learning zones that make beginners feel safe and welcome and also offers specialized clinics and workshops throughout the season for anyone hoping to level up their skills.