Where to Try Bandeja Paisa in Bogotá

Colombian cuisine isn’t exactly known for a light touch, defined as it is by hearty stews and soups. Take one of the country’s most iconic dishes, the popular bandeja paisa, literally a “paisa tray,” so named because it’s heaped onto an oversized oval platter and hails from Colombia’s Paisa region. That includes the Department of Antioquia and the mountainous coffee zone in the northwestern part of the country.

Colorfully referred to as “a festival of meat on a Frisbee-sized plate,” this rib-sticking Colombian comfort food is an homage to meat and lots of it: pork sausages (both chorizo and morcilla, or blood sausage), chicharrón (crispy deep-fried pork rind) and minced beef, marinaded in traditional Colombian seasonings. They share space on the tray with white rice, red beans, an arepa (a thick corn patty), fried ripe plantain for caramelized sweetness, sliced avocado for cool creaminess, and hogao (a savory tomato-and-onion sauce), all topped with a fried egg for its rich, velvety yolk. It’s a symphony of tastes and textures.

If that seems like culinary overload, it’s exactly the point. Though bandeja paisa’s origin is hazy, it likely served as a protein-packed meal that farmers would eat for breakfast before working in the fields. The meat-and-carb powerhouse kept them going all day long. Its roots trace back to the Spanish colonial era, when Indigenous ingredients began to merge with Spanish influences. The beans, corn, and tomato were native agricultural products, while the pork, beef, and sausages reflected the Spanish introduction of livestock. The dish may have evolved from culinary traditions specific to Antioquia, such as the seco antioqueño, which featured rice, beans, and meat, and grew over time into the signature meal of today.

It’s no longer considered peasant food but rather a source of regional pride for Colombians hailing from the Paisa region, which includes Medellín, the capital of Antioquia and Colombia’s second largest city. At the same time, it’s now eaten in many parts of the country. That has spawned several variants of the dish with the addition or replacement of ingredients.

Some Antioquian restaurants, for example, offer an expanded version known as “seven meats platter,” which adds grilled steak, pork, and liver to the classic meats — creating the ultimate carnivore experience. A lighter version is popular in Bogotá, which replaces the pork with grilled chicken breast, the chorizo with a wiener, and the blood sausage with salad. In the Tolima region, it’s served with french fries instead of plantain.

In 2005, the Colombian government tried to make bandeja paisa the national dish and even changed the name to bandeja montañera (mountain tray) to avoid the exclusive association with the Paisa region. But the move received pushback and never took off. Whether it’s officially the national dish or not, bandeja paisa is much more than just a meal. Celebrating the country’s agricultural bounty, it has become a culinary symbol of Colombian warmth, abundance, and hospitality. Often shared on special occasions, such as family gatherings and festivals, it’s a way to connect with the nation’s cultural and gastronomic roots.

I remember eating this classic dish at roadside country restaurants on family vacations during my childhood in Bogotá. Though, admittedly, I could barely make a dent in it. No matter. Each mouthful was a flavorful burst of Colombia on a plate.

Nearly every Colombian restaurant serving traditional cuisine has bandeja paisa on the menu, sometimes with its own touches. If you’re planning a visit to Bogotá, here are some places to try it. 

Bogotá restaurants

Casa Vieja

Located in a charming old house filled with antiques and chandeliers, this downtown restaurant specializes in authentic Colombian cuisine. With a 50-year history, Casa Vieja has stayed true to its roots of celebrating traditional dishes from around the country with time-honored recipes. Its bandeja paisa goes by an earlier name, plato del montañero (mountaineer’s plate), referring to the mountainous region where it originated.

Las Cazuelas de la Abuela

Popular with locals, this traditional Bogotá restaurant serves a typical bandeja paisa along with other classic dishes on its 100% Colombian menu. Opened in 2000, Cazuelas de la Abuela (Grandma’s Casseroles) maintains its authenticity by serving home-cooked-style food based on “grandma’s” recipes.

Restaurante La Herencia

Take a gastronomic tour of Colombia at Restaurante La Herencia, a chic, country-style dining spot in Bogotá’s financial heart, which is often booked for special occasions. Its bandeja paisa is as classic as can be, based on a recipe from yesteryear.

La Puerta de la Catedral

Tucked into Bogota’s historic center, La Puerta de la Catedral is a 300-year-old mansion with a storied role in Colombian independence. Among its signature dishes is a bountiful bandeja paisa, which also comes in a vegetarian version that replaces the meats with lentils, chickpea croquettes, vegan blood sausage, and vegetable-protein chorizo.